Westend Historic District

a.k.a. See Also:Sanger Brothers Complex;Dallas County Courthouse

Bounded by Lamar, Griffin, Wood, Market, and Commerce Sts., Dallas, TX
Representing Dallas' oldest sections of town, the Westend District has played a vital role in the city's development and remains one of the richest historical areas in Dallas. Much of John Neely Bryan's original townsite is included within the district, which encompasses an area over thirty blocks west of the city's central business district. The high concentration of early twentieth-century commercial warehouses within the district provides a vivid reminder of the economic boom experienced by Dallas during the first two decades of this century. These structures stand as testimony to Dallas' establishment as one of the most important wholesale distributing centers in the Southwest and illustrate the close economic and architectural relationship between Dallas and Chicago. Several out- standing examples of Chicago Schools and Commercial style architecture are included within the district along with a small complex of county government buildings, Dealey Plaza, the JFK Memorial, and Founder's Plaza, which constitute the remainder of the contributing sites within the Westend District.

Established in the early 1840s, Dallas was laid out near the Trinity River in a grid plan by John Neely Bryan, the city's founder. The state legislature created Dallas County in 1846, and the city of Dallas was designated the temporary county seat. Subsequent county elections established Dallas as the permanent county seat, and the city's future appeared more promising. An entire city block was donated by Bryan as the site for the first county courthouse, and presently, "Old Red," the old Dallas County Courthouse, stands on the site of the original courthouse square. The courthouse square served as the early focal point for the community, and much of the city's early growth occurred within the square's immediate area. During Dallas' first thirty years, the population steadily increased despite a disastrous flood in the 1860s. Many of the townspeople believed that Dallas possessed tremendous potential as the major north Texas trading center to complement Houston and Galveston to the south. Numerous attempts were made to dredge the Trinity, thereby making the river navigable and also providing Dallas with an inland harbor, a cheap means of transporting goods and materials, and easy access to the open seas. This dream of establishing Dallas as a major inland port never materialized, as the Trinity today remains unnavigable.

Providing the inexpensive transportation of which many Dallasites had dreamed, the coming of the railroad in the early 1870s proved to be one of the most significant factors not only to the warehouse area but to the city as well. Prior to the arrival of the Houston and Texas Central Railroad in 1872, Dallas had been a small community of approximately 3,000. The Houston and Texas Central linked Dallas with Houston and with Galveston's well-established deep-water port. In 1873 after a long and bitter struggle, the Texas and Pacific Railroad built its line through Dallas, The T & P was one of the state's earliest and most important east-west railways and established Dallas as a vital rail crossroads.

Running just two blocks north of the courthouse, the T & P tracks provided an economic catalyst to the area between the courthouse and the tracks. The renaming of Burleson Street to Pacific Avenue illustrated the profound effect that the railroad had upon the area as many local retail and wholesale firms were located near the tracks. Herman Brosius' "Bird's Eye View of the City of Dallas, Texas" indicated the increased economic activity along the tracks. The Missouri, Kansas, and Texas Railroad extended a line through Dallas in the 1880s and eventually located its general offices in the city. This railroad played a critical role in the warehouse dis- trict's development.

By 1890 the rapid delivery of goods from the Mid-west and the shipment of agricultural products in return had contributed to a construction boom in the warehouse area. A great number of commercial buildings had been erected by this time; however, a subsequent boom in the early 1900s witnessed the razing of many of these Victorian commercial buildings. Today few nineteenth-century commercial buildings remain in Dallas. The oldest warehouse within the district, the Texas Drug Building at 902 Commerce, can be traced as far back as 1896 and represents the only Victorian commercial warehouse still standing within the Westend District.

The last decade of the nineteenth century proved to be a difficult period for Dallas. The prosperity that the city had experienced from 1870 to 1890 (the population increased from 3,000 to 38,000) slackened considerably. The national economic recession of the 1890s (the Panic of 1893) and a severe drought in Texas caused a slowing of the city's growth, as Dallas' population increased by only 4,000 during this ten-year period.

The completion of the county courthouse (National Register) in 1891-92 represented Dallas' most significant civic event in the 1890s. Erected on the original courthouse square, "Old Red," as it has come to be known, was the county's fifth courthouse and served in its actual capacity until 1965. The five-story structure with its central tower later removed because of structural inadequacies, dominated the city's skyline for many years. Designed by a Little Rock, Arkansas architect, M.A. Orlopp, the courthouse reflected a strong influence by H.H. Richardson's Romanesque buildings and upon completion, was regarded as one of the most handsome structures within the state. The courthouse was renovated in 1968 and is currently used by the county as supplemental office space for the new courthouse, which opened in 1965.

The coming of the twentieth century brought new optimism to Dallas and to the warehouse district which had developed along the railroad tracks. this time 82.9 percent of the state's population resided in rural areas and agriculture strongly dominated the state's economy. Because of the well-established railroad system, the fertile hinterlands surrounding Dallas, and the manufacture and marketing of cheap, mass-produced agricultural equipment, the city grew as a farm implement distributing center for north Texas. Many out-of-state farm machine producers established branch offices in Dallas, and the demand for multi-story warehouses to store the products peaked. The majority of these firms were based in Illinois, particularly the Chicago area, and offered such products as plows, cultivators, farm and spring wagons, carriages, buggies and other agricultural supplies. Parlin and Orendorff, John Deere, and Southern Rock Island were among the many Illinois companies that established regional offices in Dallas. Constructing warehouses that exhibited a strong in- fluence of the Chicago School and Commercial styles of architecture, these firms brought to Dallas a new and progressive attitude toward architecture and created a strong economic and architectural tie between the two cities.

Most of the multi-story warehouses erected in the first decade of the twentieth century were directly related to farm-implement enterprises. In 1901 the Southern Rock Island Plow Company constructed a seven-story brick building at the northwest corner of Houston and Elm. The building served as the company's Texas headquarters for many years. Better known as the Texas School Book Depository, the structure is believed to be the site from which Lee Harvey Oswald allegedly shot President John F. Kennedy. Recently, the county of Dallas purchased the building. The John Deere Plow Company Building at the northeast corner of Houston and Elm represents one of the most architecturally significant buildings within the district. Completed in 1902, the seven-story brick structure was designed by the local architectural firm of Hubbell and Greene. The building displays Sullivanesque detailing and exhibits form and massing unique to Dallas' architecture. Other structures erected in the first decade of the twentieth Century included the Parlin and Orendorff Implement Company Building, the Texas Moline Building, the King- man-Texas Building, the warehouse at 912 Commerce, the Emerson- Brantingham Plow Company and the Briggs-Weaver Machinery Buildings. All of these structures (except 912 Commerce) were located within one block of the T & P tracks and illustrate the close relationship between the railroad and the warehouses.

The Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad proved to be the most influential company within the warehouse area. Besides the railroad track terminals, MKT constructed several buildings which are included within the district's boundaries. The MKT office building completed in 1911 was designed by H.A. Overbeck of Dallas. The building was recently refurbished, and MKT still maintains offices within the seven-story structure. The railroad company also erected a freight station in 1921 and an eight-story warehouse at Pacific and Market in 1924. Designed by the St. Louis architect, A.L. Sparks, the warehouse was constructed of reinforced concrete and steel and served as the headquarters for the Interstate Forwarding Company.

The city's growth also facilitated an expansion of government structures. In 1906 a new city jail was constructed on Ross Avenue. Serving in its original capacity until World War I, the building was used as an unclaimed freight store until its conversion in 1966 into storage space. Designed by Peterman and Overbeck of Dallas, the 1913 County Criminal Courts Building at the northeast corner of Houston and Main exhibits Neo-Classical architectural elements. Lang and Witchell served as the architects for the Gothic-inspired County Records Building, erected in 1922. Lang and Witchell and H.A. Overbeck of Peterman and Overbeck are credited as designers of numerous residences throughout the city, including Swiss Avenue (National Register), Munger Place and South Park Row neighborhoods, both soon to be submitted as district nominations to the National Register.

By the second decade of the twentieth century, two distinct industrial districts had developed near Dallas' Central Business District. The MKT tracks terminated in the area north of Elm Street and west of Houston Street, and the MKT industrial district included an area bounded by Pacific Avenue, Mckinney Avenue, the tracks, and Cottonwood Street. On the other hand, the Texas and Pacific industrial district developed along Pacific Avenue. These tracks were abandoned in 1921 and a new district was formed between McKinney and Ross Avenue. The relocation of the tracks signaled the beginning of the decline of the warehouse district's dominance in the city's industrial development. However, some new construction did occur in the 1920s. Allis-Chalmers constructed a small two-story warehouse at the corner of Corbin and Market in 1920-21, and three additional floors were added to General Electric's original three-story warehouse at 1801 N. Lamar.

The southern portion of the district was transformed in the 1920s into Dallas' garment district. Erected in 1924, the Baron Building at 915 Jackson presently houses a wholesale jewelry firm, but for many years it served as a women's wear outlet. In 1926 the Lichtenstein-Mittenthal Company, a wholesale millinery establishment, occupied the old Texas Drug Building, one of the few nineteenth-century structures remaining in the Westend District. The Wholesale Merchants Building was constructed in 1928 at the southwest corner of Griffin and Commerce and contributed to Dallas' garment industry. One of the most outstanding and impressive buildings within the district, the Higginbotham-Bailey Building housed one of the largest dry goods firms in the nation. The original building was constructed in 1914 but subsequent additions in 1917 and 1923 were necessary to meet the needs of the rapidly expanding company. Higginbotham- Bailey still maintains offices in the structure.

The Great Depression of the 1930's greatly hampered the warehouse's prosperity. The severe financial difficulties experienced by farmers resulted in a reduction in farm implement purchases. Since a majority of the firms in the warehouse district are farm-oriented, many of these suppliers declared bankruptcy, as did the Southern Rock Island Plow Company in 1938. The improvement of the trucking and highway system accelerated the decline of the warehouse district. No longer confined to a location along rail-road tracks, many firms relocated to outer areas where expansion would be easier and cheaper. The re-channeling of the Trinity River in the 1920s witnessed the creation and development of the Trinity River Industrial District. The Love Field Industrial District which opened during World War II also lured many firms out of the old warehouse district.

The construction of three plazas marked one of the few positive factors for the warehouse district after the 1920s. Honoring George Dealey, the man who led the crusade of re-channeling the Trinity River, Dealey Plaza was erected in 1939-40 by the Works Project Administration (Hare and Hare are credited as the landscape architects) and reportedly occupies the site of the first house built in Dallas, John Neeley Bryan's log cabin. A reconstruction of the cabin (reputedly some original logs remain) is located in Founder's Plaza, one block east of the County Records Building. The cabin stands as a tribute to Bryan and, more importantly, symbolizes Dallas' beginnings. Courthouse Plaza is the third within the district. Designed in 1966 by Philip Johnson, the JFK Memorial in Courthouse Plaza pays tribute to the thirty-second President.

From the 1950s until the mid-1970s, the buildings within the old warehouse district experienced great deterioration. Many structures received a minimum amount of upkeep in order for the buildings to meet local safety requirements. A number of structures have remained mostly vacant, and various downtown merchants used some of the warehouses for the storage of their products. Because of the warehouse district's proximity to Dallas' Central Business District and the great need for parking space, several of the warehouses were demolished and replaced with parking lots. The City of Dallas, recognizing the area's rich historical and architectural significance, attempted to save the area and establish it as a historic zone. The Dallas City Council approved the creation of the Westend Historic District in 1975. Long-range programs, both public and private are at- tempting to restore the area's historical integrity and help revitalize downtown Dallas.
Local significance of the district:
Industry; Community Planning And Development; Landscape Architecture; Commerce; Transportation; Politics/government; Architecture; Social History

Listed in National Register of Historic Places in 1978.

The National Register of Historic Places is the official list of the Nation’s historic places worthy of preservation. Authorized by the National Historic Preservation Act of 1966, the National Park Service’s National Register of Historic Places is part of a national program to coordinate and support public and private efforts to identify, evaluate, and protect America’s historic and archeological resources.

The Johnson Space Center, located in Houston, played a crucial role in the development of the U.S. space program. It was here that NASA trained its astronauts and mission control teams, and it continues to be an important center for space research and exploration today.
Dallas County, located in northern Texas, has a rich history that has contributed to its growth and significance. Here is a concise summary of its historical journey:

Established in 1846, Dallas County played a crucial role in the development of North Texas. The county's namesake, George Mifflin Dallas, was the Vice President of the United States at the time. The city of Dallas, the county seat, quickly emerged as a center for trade and commerce due to its strategic location along major transportation routes.

During the late 19th century, Dallas County experienced rapid economic growth driven by industries such as cotton, railroads, and cattle. The city of Dallas became a major hub for cotton trading, attracting business and establishing itself as a prominent financial center in the Southwest.

In the 20th century, Dallas County continued to evolve and diversify its economy. The discovery of oil in the nearby East Texas Oil Field in the early 1900s led to the development of the oil industry in the region, contributing to the county's prosperity. The county also played a significant role in the aerospace industry, hosting the headquarters of major aerospace companies and contributing to the growth of aviation technology.

Dallas County's cultural landscape reflects its vibrant and diverse population. The county is home to a wide range of cultural institutions, including museums, art galleries, theaters, and music venues. Dallas County also played a notable role in the civil rights movement, with important milestones in the fight for equality and integration.

Today, Dallas County stands as a major economic and cultural center. It boasts a robust economy supported by various industries, including finance, technology, healthcare, and telecommunications. The county is known for its thriving arts scene, professional sports teams, and diverse culinary offerings.

With its rich history, economic vitality, and cultural significance, Dallas County continues to shape North Texas as a dynamic and influential region.

This timeline provides a glimpse into the major events and milestones that have shaped the history of Dallas County, Texas.

  • Pre-19th Century: The area was originally inhabited by various indigenous tribes, including the Caddo, Wichita, and Comanche.

  • 1839: Dallas County was officially established and named after George Mifflin Dallas, the Vice President of the United States under President James K. Polk.

  • Mid-19th Century: Dallas County experienced significant growth with the establishment of Dallas as a trading post and the arrival of settlers drawn by the opportunities in trade and agriculture.

  • Late 1800s: The county prospered with the expansion of railroads, particularly the Texas and Pacific Railway and the Houston and Texas Central Railroad, which solidified Dallas as a major transportation hub.

  • Early 20th Century: Dallas County saw a surge in economic development and urbanization. Industries such as oil, cotton, banking, and manufacturing fueled the city's growth.

  • 1960s: Dallas County gained national attention due to its role in the civil rights movement. The city of Dallas was the site of the assassination of President John F. Kennedy in 1963.

  • Late 20th Century: Dallas County continued to experience rapid growth and diversification, becoming a major center for business, finance, and telecommunications. The county is known for its vibrant arts and cultural scene, including the Dallas Arts District.

  • Today, Dallas County is the second-most populous county in Texas and home to the city of Dallas, a thriving metropolitan area.