Where the Southern Cross the Dog

Marker provided by: Mississippi Blues Commission.

W. C. Handy, “The Father of the Blues,” immortalized the crossing of the Southern Railway and the Yazoo Delta (“Yellow Dog”) Railroad at Moorhead in his 1914 song “Yellow Dog Rag,” better known under its later title, “Yellow Dog Blues.” Handy wrote that he first heard the line “Goin’ where the Southern cross the Dog” sung by a guitarist at the Tutwiler train station (c. 1903). Moorhead became a hub not only of rail transportation but of blues activity in local juke joints.

Moorhead was a thriving frontier town in the late 1890s built upon the local lumber trade, and an important stop on the Southern Railway in Mississippi. The Yazoo Delta Railway was incorporated in 1895 by Chester Pond of the Moorhead Improvement Company, who previously owned a narrow gauge railway used to transport logs and lumber to and from his mill. The “Y.D.” opened in August of 1897 with 20.5 miles of track running north from Moorhead to Ruleville; in 1900 the railway was incorporated into the Yazoo & Mississippi Valley Railroad (Y&MV), asubsidiary of the Illinois Central Railroad, and extended from Ruleville to Tutwiler and south to Belzoni. The origin of the nickname “Yellow Dog” is debated. The most common explanation is that it stemmed from yellow-painted rolling stock bearing the initials “Y.D.”; other theories include the barking of an actual yellow dog, connections with the political term “yellow dog Democrat,” non-union labor, and railway lore of “dog” as a short line (another Delta branch of the Y&MV was called the “Black Dog”). Despite the Yazoo Delta’s brief existence the name “Yellow Dog” continued to be applied to the Y&MV and became an iconic symbol of the Delta and railway lore.

The assertive rhythms of trains were stylistic foundations for blues and jazz. In early blues lyrics trains figure importantly both as literal objects and as metaphors for topics including escape and long distance, as illustrated through W.C. Handy’s “Yellow Dog Blues” and other songs that referto the crossing or the Yellow Dog, including Big Bill Broonzy’s “Southern Blues,” Charley Patton’s “Green River Blues,” Lucille Bogan’s “Pay Roll Blues,” and Sam Collins’ “Yellow Dog Blues,” a different song from Handy’s. The creation of a railway crossroads in Moorhead spurred thedevelopment of restaurants and hotels here. At its peak eight passenger trains a day passed through Moorhead; white passengers could take luxurious Pullman cars from here to Memphis on the Y&MV, while African Americans rode in separate cars. Moorhead became a bustling town, especially on Saturday nights, as local resident Jim Harrison recalled: “A few white folks and many, many black folks came to town to celebrate the end of a hard week of manual labor. They shopped, socialized, and generally turned the town into a mini-Mardi Gras. . . The streets and sidewalks were so packed you could hardly walk.” Howlin’ Wolf and Robert Johnson reportedly played together in Moorhead in the 1930s, and bluesman Booker Miller recalled hearing Willie Brown here. Musicians who lived in the Moorhead area include Charley Booker (1919-1989), Eli Green (1897-1968), James “Boo Boo” Davis (b. 1943), Chicago bluesman Willie Hudson (b. 1942), southern soul vocalists Chris Ivy aka “Mr. Ivy” (b. 1976) and Jimmy Hicks (b. 1938), and gospel singer Brother O’Neal

The Mississippi Blues Trail markers tell stories through words and images of bluesmen and women and how the places where they lived and the times in which they existed–and continue to exist–influenced their music. The sites run the gamut from city streets to cotton fields, train depots to cemeteries, and clubs to churches. We have a lot to share, and it’s just down the Mississippi Blues Trail.

The Mississippi Blues Trail is an ongoing project of the Mississippi Blues Commission. Funding for this project has been made possible by grants from the National Endowment for the Arts, National Endowment for the Humanities, Mississippi Department of Transportation, the Federal Highway Administration, AT&T, and the Delta Center for Culture and Learning at Delta State University plus additional support from the Mississippi Development Authority Tourism Division.

For more information visit msbluestrail.org.

In 1963, civil rights activist Medgar Evers was assassinated outside his home in Jackson, Mississippi. His killer, Byron De La Beckwith, was not convicted until 1994.
Located in the Mississippi Delta region, Sunflower County has a rich and diverse history that spans several centuries. The area was originally inhabited by indigenous peoples, including the Choctaw and Chickasaw tribes. In the 19th century, European settlers began to establish cotton plantations, relying heavily on enslaved African labor.

Sunflower County played a significant role in the Civil Rights Movement of the 20th century. It was the birthplace of Fannie Lou Hamer, a prominent civil rights activist who tirelessly fought for voting rights, school desegregation, and equal treatment for African Americans. The county became a battleground for racial equality, witnessing numerous protests and acts of resistance against segregation and discrimination.

During the mid-20th century, Sunflower County, like much of the Mississippi Delta, experienced socio-economic hardships due to mechanization in agriculture and the decline of the cotton industry. Poverty and unemployment became prevalent, and the population decreased as many residents left in search of better opportunities.

In recent years, Sunflower County has made efforts to revitalize its economy and improve living conditions for its residents. Various initiatives have been implemented to promote education, job creation, and community development. While challenges persist, the county continues to evolve and adapt, striving for a brighter future. Today, Sunflower County serves as a reminder of the struggles faced by its inhabitants in the past, while also showcasing their resilience and determination for a better tomorrow.

This timeline provides a condensed summary of the historical journey of Sunflower County, Mississippi.

  • Early 1800s: Sunflower County was inhabited by Native American tribes, including the Choctaw and Chickasaw.
  • 1833: The Mississippi Legislature established Sunflower County.
  • 1844: The county seat was established in the town of Pheba.
  • 1846: Pheba was renamed to Sunflower, becoming the county seat.
  • 1854: The town of Sunflower was superseded by the newly established town of Johnsonville as the county seat.
  • 1858: Sunflower County's seat moved again, this time to McNutt.
  • 1910: Indianola became the permanent county seat, replacing McNutt.
  • 1920s-1930s: Sunflower County experienced a significant growth in cotton farming and became a major center for the agricultural industry.
  • 1950s-1960s: The Civil Rights Movement had a strong presence in Sunflower County, with notable activists leading initiatives for equality.
  • 2004: The B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center opened in Indianola, honoring the famous blues musician who was born in Sunflower County.
  • Present: Sunflower County continues to be primarily agricultural, with a focus on cotton, soybeans, and catfish farming.